bullet Buy the factory service manual and engine parts manual for your engine.
bullet Use a Sharpie marker to write down the size of the (7/8’s?) wrench for the drain plug on the cover to the bilge. Do the same for the socket to tighten water pump belts, and any other critical sizes.
bullet JOE3656 >> Avoid car battery chargers. There’s generally no isolation between the ac and dc windings or the circuit is a step down bridge. This can put A.C. and shore D.C. in the boat’s ground. Plugging them directly into shore power is far worse, since you avoid the galvanic isolator. (Check your Capac!). Conceivably you can disconnect a battery from the system and charge it directly, but it’s better to buy a marine charger.
bullet JOE3656 >> I’m told to Avoid inner tube rubber, Rubber contains carbon or graphite powders, which will cause galvanic corrosion (it’s very cathodic).
bullet Denis MY_WAY>>
I think your doing a great job as I have never seen so many on this site. (thanks)
For Marinette owners I have a good tip you mite like for air, for air horns cheaply done.
I went to a junk yard and found out that Cadillac have air pumps for air shock system under the hood. Because it is near the motor and gas it is explosion proof and great for marine use. Two cost me $20.00 but I removed them.
I got to small air tanks and mounted two air pumps under my deck and power my two sets of air horns, I also put a quick connect and a air coil hose with air blower and tire inflator end, I can air the toys. I also aired a tire on my trailer one time when it was low at the lake.
One other thing I did was put bait well timers on my blowers and when you turn the batteries on, it starts the bilge blowers and they run 15 min. and off 15 min. Or you can set to run all the time, so no chance of not running them before you start up your engines. Just a safer way to run your blowers in your bilge…
Just wanted to add this info with the hope it will be useful..
Denis >>>>>> MY WAY <<<<<<<<<<<
bullet JOE 3656>> A small amount of Screwgrab or grinding compound on the end of the screwdriver keeps the screwdriver from stripping the slot.
bullet JOE 3656 >> Plan and budget the repairs with a written priority list (from the last survey?), from safety, floatability, engines, cabin leaks, and usability on down to looks. Looks come last, no matter what. Post a copy of the list (without prices) where the spouse can see it.
bullet JOE 3656 >> All Stainless steel is not the same, Marine Stainless is series 300 stainless (especially 316). It makes a difference.
bullet JOE 3656 >> Double clamp all hoses. Check all clamps EVERY YEAR.
bullet JOE 3656 >> Clean up steel, brass, and stainless steel screws and scrap if they fall into the bilge.
bullet JALTHOUSE1 >> Do not use any kind of anti-seize on the shaft. The system depends on the taperlock that develops between the shaft and hub to transmit the torque of the engine to the prop/water. By using anti-seize the taperlock does not develop and all of the torque is transmitted by the key. This results on extremely high stress on the keyway of the shaft and a high probability of failure of the shaft at the forward end of the keyway. I worked as a design engineer at Michigan Wheel for 5 years and to my knowledge there is no torque specs for propeller nuts. To double check I looked at my copy of the SAE spec for propeller shafts and hubs and a torque spec was not listed there. General installation procedure is to drive the prop on the shaft with the wide nut (as tight as you can get it), back off the big nut, put the skinny nut on as tight as you can get it. Put the wide nut back on as tight as you can get it and put the cotter pin in.
Unfortunately props are a bugger to get off, but that just means they are doing exactly what they are supposed to do, a necessary evil.
bullet DEBAL >> Just had my boat surveyed last year (2000) and they had me replace both of my bilge pump hoses, but on reinstallation they made me run both lines all the way up to the deck and then down again to the outlets. This way they can’t back siphon into the boat.
bullet DEBAL >> They also suggested replacing my bilge pump switches so that they are manual and auto only with no “OFF” position.
bullet DEBAL >> One more important issue was to make sure that the copper fuel lines were totally isolated from the hull. I used clear tygon tubing to do that. This was done by the Boat U.S. insurance surveyor (Bill Novak).
bullet JOE3656 >> Marine Polyurethane caulk (3M 5200) lasts longest for me.
bullet Fishnatic >>Install a cotter pin in the rudder shaft to act as a backup to keep from losing a rudder. One member lost the rudder on their 28 single a few years ago.
bullet JOE3656 >> 3M Scotchgard sprayed around caulking can keep micro leaks from letting in water.
bullet FastJeff >>Finally, the Marinette rain gutters in the back, just above the air scoops, tend to flood the beejeebers out of the cockpit area–water roars out of them and onto the cockpit floor. Knowing the proclivity of the cockpit floor to rot out, we had an awning made that covers the cockpit, but these dumb rain gutters were still pouring water onto the cockit floor. My solution was to silicone shut the aft ends of the rain gutters, then drill a bunch of 1/4 ” holes in the bottom near the ends to allow the water to run down onto the deck instead. Worked slick–and I did it during the rain storm! (Ed Note You have to keep cleaning them.)
bullet FastJeff and JRALBERT >> Re replacing windows. In the rear, behind that diagonal brace, the entire track has to be pulled forward and out to get any of the windows/ screen out (or back in). (Same is true for forward windows, ED). By the way, removing the teak does nothing at all (as you will see).
bullet FastJeff >> If you have a sedan, then you’ve undoubtedly had the windshield windows come crashing down on you when you loosened up the clamp nut a bit too much. Pow! After a few times this happened, I decided to eliminate this nonsense once and for all. The solution was ultra simple: A rubber washer, followed by a large flat washer, then the hand nut. The windows now slide slowly down in a controlled fashion, braked by the friction of the rubber, instead of trying to guillotine one’s fingers.
bullet Fast Jeff >> My ’85 Sedan had terrible set of sloppy throttles. (These are the Morse controls that have the throttle and shift located together.) The slop in the starboard throttle made synching the motors a darn ballet act! The cure was super simple: First, back off the tension adjuster (so it won’t trick you). Next, using a long, 1/4 inch drill bit, drill a hole through the pivot of the rocker arm (that looks like a see-saw). There’s already a partially cored, 1/4 inch hole there on each side, so use it as a guide. Drill from BOTH sides (for accuracy) then run the drill bit all the way through. Next, using a 1/4 inch bolt 3 inches long and a lock nut, bolt the assembly tightly together to eliminate all that frustrating slop. The bolt needs to be tightened fairly tight, but not so tight that you bind things up. You’ll need to experiment until you get it right. Finally, to get the friction you want in the throttle motion, tighten/ loosen the friction lock bolt (7/16 inch open end).